During the 1920s and 1930s, the Harlem Renaissance poet Langston Hughes spent time in Paris, and did not write a kind word about the city. In his memoir, “I Wonder as I Wander,” he famously declared it to be “the most overrated country in the world.” His observations and feelings towards France have been the subject of much debate over the decades since.
The Parisian experience for Hughes was not a particularly joyful one. He was denied entry into the American Writers’ Club by the French, and was not warmly received by the French people due to his skin color. He felt the impacts of racism and exclusion, writing in his book, “I labored from bright morning to dark night and could not get a franc for my pains.”
Despite the progress made since the 1900s, racism and racial discrimination are still rampant in Europe. David Patterson, a professor at Georgetown University, recently stated: “The racism of France is subtle and pervasive, often denied, and even more often unrecognized by the French themselves.”
It is no wonder, then, that Hughes found Paris to be a hostile environment. The French typically have a great love and appreciation of the arts; however they did not appreciate the “New Negro” art or culture of which Hughes was a part. His frustration with the nation was born out of his own negative experiences, which were made worse by the pervasive racism and discrimination.
Though he was not enamoured with Paris, Hughes still stayed in the city for some years, finding a job at an academy as a substitute teacher. It was his experience at the academy which he found most upsetting. Hughes felt restricted by the traditions of the school, as well as by the sluggishness of the French. He was dismayed to discover that the same principles which had kept French society stagnant were also alive in his own school.
Moreover, the French have long enjoyed a lingering belief in the superiority of their culture and nation, particularly in artistic matters. Such an attitude has been a barrier to outsiders who may not adhere to French conventions. Hughes continued to be critical of Paris even after he returned to the United States; he was unimpressed with the city’s stylised atmosphere and inexpressive “Bohemian culture”.
In many ways, one can understand Hughes’s opinion of Paris, especially in how it is portrayed from an African-American perspective. While there are still many points of contention to be discussed regarding race and culture, this period of history exemplifies the concept of cultural difference, and how it can be misunderstood, overlooked and disrespected. This is why Hughes had such strong feelings about the city.
Personal Perspectives
Personal experiences of racism and exclusion were certainly influential in Hughes’ view of Paris. From his perspective, the city was unwelcoming, unresponsive and prejudicial. He recounts being refused a loan by a French banker simply because of his race, and was initially denied entry to many restaurants, cafés, and other establishments. His encounters with Parisian people, including members of the artistic establishment, were also not positive ones. He felt that even the most seemingly tolerant individuals held more subtle racial prejudices.
It is difficult not to draw parallels between this period in time and the current social reality; racial tensions exist across modern Europe and the United States. Such incidents and the associated emotions of humiliation, powerlessness and resentment are everyday reality for many people. This is why Hughes’s sentiment toward Paris resonates with many today, and offers a reminder of the long journey towards equality that still needs to be completed.
Experiences of Other African-American Parisians
Though Hughes experienced difficulties and feelings of alienation in Paris, the experience of other African-American Parisians was different. Many of the “New Negroes” of the time, including writers such as Richard Wright and Countee Cullen, made their home in Paris and lived there happily and fruitfully.
Interestingly, Wright’s success as a writer in Paris led him to question and reject Hughes’s attitude towards the city. In his biography of Hughes, novelist and critic Arnold Rampersad claims that this disagreement between the two writers remained for the rest of their lives.
Reasonable Criticisms
Not all of Hughes’s opinions of Paris were unjustified; there are, in fact, many reasonable criticisms of the city. The economy, for example, was reliant on the wealthy and influential, with the working classes largely overlooked and ignored. There also existed an opaque social hierarchy in Paris, and opportunities proved to be limited for people of Hughes’s background.
Various other aspects of Parisian life also left much to be desired; housing was expensive and poorly maintained, and racism was still rampant. The city’s cultural elitism also proved to be an inhibitor, as it marginalized non-French artists and thinkers.
Legacy
Langston Hughes’s experience in Paris reveals something far larger than an individual’s opinion of the city; it emphasizes the unique challenges of the African-American artists of the period. These artists had to battle deeply embedded racism and exclusion before they could create their own distinct forms of literary and artistic expression.
This is why Hughes’s view of Paris is so powerful; it was borne from the personal experiences of a talented and accomplished individual who was denied a voice. By standing up and vocalizing his thoughts, Hughes inspired generations of African-American writers to see the importance of breaking from conformist modes of expression and remain true to their own culture and experiences.
Opinions of Paris Today
Times have certainly changed since Hughes’s stay in Paris, and the city has demonstrated greater willingness to accept outsiders and to diversify its cultural offerings. It is now one of the most multi-cultural cities in Europe, and a safe space for many people of different races and nationalities.
Additionally, the Parisian artistic scene is thriving, with a number of diverse galleries and exhibitions, as well as many vibrant music and dance venues. As a tourist destination, the city also caters to all types of individuals, and does its best to provide a memorable experience for everyone.
Nurturing New Talent
The city of Paris has also invested in nurturing up-and-coming talent, in particular by showcasing and supporting African-American writers and artists. Oneexample is the Kwani Lit Fest, an annual literary event which gives a platform to emerging authors from the African diaspora.
The festival provides a much-needed opportunity for non-European authors and artists to have their voices heard, and illustrates the importance of giving under-represented voices a platform. This gives a stark contrast to the Paris Hughes experienced, and reflects the city’s commitment to fostering an inclusive and supportive atmosphere.
Blurring the Lines
Paris provides a unique opportunity for people of all backgrounds to come together and share their respective cultures. Its cosmopolitan environment encourages constructive dialogue and the appreciation of different ways of life. At times, it can even provide a space for healing and the blurring of formerly rigid social and cultural demarcations.
It was this aspect of Paris which Hughes longed for, and which he lamented was missing at the time of his stay in the city. However, there is hope that his dream may be eventually realized, and that Paris can become the welcoming and frictionless society he had envisaged.
